ST. LUCIA - HISTORY & CULTURE

Since 1979 St Lucia has been a stable independent democracy within the British Commonwealth. But after a few days on the island you'll discover influences and nuances hinting at its colorful past.

The first settlers in St. Lucia were the Arawak Indians who arrived around 200 A.D. through 800 A.D. They were peaceful, farming settlers, whose culture was superseded by the warrior-like Caribs. Traveling from the South American mainland, the Caribs came north up the Orinoco River and stopped at several islands in the area, killing the peaceful Arawaks, and replacing them as they sojourned throughout the territory that eventually took their name.  These two early Amerindian cultures called St. Lucia "Louahalao" and "Hewanorra" - meaning “Island of the Iguanas."

Le Clerc was known by several aliases, including Jambe de Bois, Wooden Leg or Peg-Leg le Clerc. The treasure-laden Spanish galleons passing by were easy prey for Peg-Leg and his band of buccaneers from Pigeon Island.

Around 1600, the Dutch established a fortified base at Vieux Fort, which led to the current French name. In 1605 another colony occurred as a result of a storm in which the ship "Olive Branch" was blown off course while on its way to Guyana and 67 English colonists waded ashore and settled on St. Lucia. They purchased land and huts from the Caribs, who continued their warlike culture. After only one month the surviving 19 English settlers were forced to flee from the Caribs of St. Lucia in a canoe. In 1639, a second group of English colonists under Sir Thomas Warner also failed in their settlement attempt.

The first lasting settlements and towns were all French after the French West India Company "brought" the island approximately 1650's. In 1746 Soufriere was the main town and by 1780 there were 12 settlements and several sugar plantations. However, the British persevered in their efforts to possess St. Lucia, launching a failed invasion in 1778 called the "Battle of Cul de Sac". By 1814, the British had succeeded in taking possession of St. Lucia after a prolonged series of very destructive battles.

The island changed hands fourteen times between the British and the French but these early estates remained largely in the lands of descendants of these French immigrants. They brought in slaves from Africa to work the land. Large areas of land were cleared to plant crop like cotton and tobacco to be sold and shipped overseas. Sugar was introduced later and soon became the most important crop. In 1838 Emancipation freed the slaves and they were able to own their own property and land. Many however, continued to work on the estates where they had once been slaves.

In 1746, the first town was established; Soufriere, a French settlement. By 1780, twelve French towns had been founded and the French built the first sugar estates. Within 15 years, 50 more estates were in operation. In 1780, a hurricane destroyed many plantations but with slave labor, the French quickly repaired the damage.

With the last years of that century came the French Revolution, Its effects were felt throughout the French Antilles. In Martinique and Guadeloupe, many royalists were beheaded. It is said that the ship carrying the guillotine sailed into Soufriere Bay. The awesome machine was taken ashore and set up in Town Square in front of the church, to continue its work. The revolutionaries declared that slavery in the French islands was at an end. But under Napoleon slavery was reintroduced. British took the island again. Many of the freed slaves, as well as French soldiers who had deserted, took to the hills. From their hideouts they organized raids on the town. They destroyed or damaged many buildings including the baths on the Diamond Estate.

The war has left fortresses and relics behind. For example, Pigeon Island National Park and Fort Rodney. From the former British officers' mess, it is easy to imagine the cannons firing at French warships as they tried to slip past the fortified hilltop.  You can also visit Morne Fortune, a site of a key battle, and Marigot Bay, once a vital wartime base and now a beautiful yacht haven. Diamond Falls and Mineral Baths, built by the French king, Louis XVI, to refresh and heal his troops stationed on St Lucia, are fascinating. As is historic Soufriere, the old French capital.

You'll find St Lucia a colorful, unique mixture of history and charming influences. St. Lucia still has many British characteristics and, although English is the official language, French patois is widely spoken by the locals. In spirit, the island is influenced by many cultures. St Lucians drive on the left and have a passion for cricket. But the Caribbean influence surfaces in the drinks - rum and locally brewed beer, in the music - calypso, soca, reggae, in the richly flavored Creole cuisine, in the carnivals, festivals and days of national pride, and in the open-air markets.

Saint Lucia is the birthplace of two Nobel Laureates (who by remarkable coincidence were both born on January 23). The late Sir W. Arthur Lewis won the Nobel Prize for Economics in 1979, and poet Derek Walcott won the 1992 Nobel Prize for literature.